One of the city’s most celebrated citizens, Franz Kafka, once famously remarked, “Prague never lets you go . . . this dear little mother has claws”. Although he may not have meant this to be entirely complimentary, his sentiment still rings true for visitors today. Whether you’ve come to amble through the cobbled streets of one of Europe’s most attractive old cities, quaff hoppy Czech beer or browse the wealth of boutique shops, you, like Kafka, will find Prague hard to leave.

Classic Prague
Prague’s iconic Old Town Square is central to any visit to the Czech capital with its compelling collage of baroque and medieval architecture, traditional craft stalls and enticing pavement cafes. Here the iconic Astronomical Clock draws big crowds, when a motley crew comprising 12 apostles, a skeleton, Turk, miser, cockerel and vanity spring to life every hour from early morning to late evening. More impressive than the hourly shows are the sweeping panoramas from the lofty 69.5m tall Town Hall Tower.
On the opposite bank of the Vlatava River, Prague Castle is the Czech Republic’s premier attraction. A warren of narrow streets, overflowing with cafes, bars and boutique shops, snake their way up to the historic fortification, with its rich medley of architectural styles (the result of myriad alterations and reconstructions over the centuries). Then there are the expansive views of the Old Town across the river.
Next to the castle, St Vitus Cathedral, with its vaulting spires, is another of Prague’s most famous landmarks. Commissioned by Charles IV in 1344 this voluminous house of prayer wasn’t completed until 1929. Its highlights are the chapel, tomb and crown of ‘Good King’ Wenceslas.
Linking the Old Town and Castle District is the striking stretch of Charles Bridge. Meandering across the stone gothic structure, where artists recreate the city in watercolours, is one of Prague’s most enjoyable experiences. Few, though, delve into its fascinating history. Commissioned in 1352 to replace the Judith Bridge (which was washed away by floods a decade earlier), it didn’t acquire its current name until 1372. It was even later (early 18th century) that the thirty baroque statues were added to the bridge. Look out for the shiny plaque sported by the statue of St John of Nepomuk; rubbing it is reputed to guarantee a return trip to Prague.

Alternative Prague
Prague’s Jewish Quarter may be central, but it remains relatively unexplored. Here a museum, synagogues and cemeteries shed light on the persecution suffered by city’s Jews over the past millennia. Today Prague’s Jewish population runs to around 5,000 compared to roughly 50,000 before WWII.
Just south of the city centre Vysehrad Fortress is well worth a visit. The redbrick hill castle is a national cultural monument that comes complete with dungeons, the striking Church of St Peter and St Paul and St. Martin’s rotunda. Vysehrad’s cemetery is the elegant last resting place of Czech luminaries like Ales, Mucha and Dvorak. If all this doesn’t win you over then the magnificent Vltava vistas will.
Troja Chateau is another of Prague’s unsung attractions. Today the Italianate residence, and former summer home of Count Vaclav Vojtech of Sternberk, is part of the Municipal Museum and houses Czech paintings and baroque glass. Its elaborate frescoes, ostentatious design touches and French gardens are the real highlights though.

Prague Museums
Prague boasts over a hundred museums and galleries, so you won’t have time to visit them all. The National Gallery collection is world class, with European and Asian art from across the centuries displayed in six separate buildings - Sternberk Palace, St George’s Convent, St Agnes’ Convent, Zbraslav Chateau, Kinsky Palace (no permanent exhibition) and Veletrzni Palace. The latter showcases modern art in a striking functionalist building flooded with light. A seventh exhibition space, the Schwarzenberg Palace, is set to open in Hradcany Square in 2008. This will bring a permanent exposition, ‘Baroque in the Czech Lands’, to this historic location.

Amber Nectar
In a country that has the highest per capita consumption of the cold frothy stuff, it is perhaps unsurprising that Prague is a Mecca for beer aficionados. Hallowed Czech brews like Budvar, Radegast, Staropramen and Pilsner Urquell are available in bars throughout the city. The traditional beer hall U Zlateho Tygra (Husova 17) is the most authentic place in the Old Town to savour the latter. The offerings of small-scale producers are also often available in these atmospheric watering holes.  U Fleku (Kremencova 11), the city’s oldest beer hall, has been brewing its own beer since 1499. Meanwhile U Cerneho Vola (Loretanske Namesti 1), in the castle district, serves up Kozel, a richly flavoured concoction with a gorgeous aftertaste.

Top Eats
Located on the banks of the Vlatava next to the Charles Bridge, Kampa Park (Na Kampe 8b, tel: +420 257 532 685) boasts menu as impressive as its views. Dishing up the likes of scallops, caviar and lobster this is not a budget option.
Boasting some of the finest cuisine and views in the city Allegro (Veleslavínova 2a, tel: +420 211 427 000) offers a great value set lunch for those who can’t stomach the a la carte prices.
The stylish 120 Days (Na Prikope 24, tel: +420 222 212 712) may not be managing to change its décor every 120 days as at first promised, but the modern deli style menu doesn’t disappoint.

Best Buys
Glass shops are ten a penny in Prague. If you’re after real Bohemian crystal look out for the oval sticker that guarantees its authenticity. Moser Glass (Na Prikope 12) is a good place to pick up quality stemware and decorative vases. The Czech Republic is also synonymous with deep red garnets and shops selling these are dotted around the Old Town. Celetna Crystal (Celetna 15) sells a good range of garnet jewellery alongside porcelain and Bohemian crystal.

Whether you spend your time enjoying a tankard of gorgeous Czech beer in an atmospheric old beer hall, prefer sifting through the eclectic shops or just soaking up the tales and legends of one of Europe’s most deeply historical cities, few people leave Prague disappointed. Franz Kafka may have had a troubled relationship with his native city, but most visitors find that Prague’s claws stay with them long after strolling its cobbled streets.