TWO-IN-ONE: TORONTO TO THE FALLS

It’s like standing at the top of the world. Toronto’s CN Tower, at 553.3 metres high, has been the world"s tallest freestanding structure since 1976 with the world’s highest public observation deck at 447 metres.

It’s exhilarating to look over the city, Canada’s largest, and the never–ending blue carpet of Lake Ontario from the 342-metre-high outdoor observation deck. Still more thrilling to crawl, stand and pose for photos on the (reinforced) glass floor.

You can also dine in 360, the Tower’s revolving, award-winning eatery, which has a 360-degree city view at 351 metres. Entrance fees are waived for diners, but the food is pricey. Go higher still onto the SkyPod, the world"s highest public observation deck – although missable for the extra cost.

Dizzying heights to cultural sights
The ROM (Royal Ontario Museum) www.rom.on.ca is unmissable – literally – with its carved crystal cube jutting out of the revamped exterior. Inside, the collection is extensive, from Native Canadian crest poles and trade silver to Chinese Temple Art, European artefacts and the new Age of Dinosaurs gallery. The ROM is free on Fridays after 4.30pm.

The Art Gallery of Ontario www.ago.net houses international and national art including works by the Group of Seven, influential artists who painted the Canadian wilderness, plus European art, Inuit sculptures, contemporary art by Henry Moore and nineteenth-century Canadian art. The Toronto Dominion Gallery of Inuit Art is also excellent along with Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca and Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art. http://www.gardinermuseum.on.ca

The nine-day Toronto City Pass shaves off a few dollars if you’re intent on seeing all the major attractions –ROM, CN Tower, Art Gallery of Ontario, Casa Loma, Ontario Science Museum and Toronto Zoo. Travel is easy with Toronto’s two–line subway, three interchange stations and buses/streetcars departing from subway stops. Day passes are good value for multiple journeys, otherwise bulk–buy tokens.

Neighbourhoods
Sights aside, what makes this Canadian city special is its cosmopolitan vibe. Atmospheric Little Italy on College Street West (aka Corso Italia) is lined with gelaterias and trattorias while lively Little Portugal is grouped around Queen Street West.

Greektown, along Danforth Avenue (east of Yonge St, Toronto’s main north–south artery) is another Mediterranean hub of outdoor patios and authentic eateries while Little India resides on Gerrard Street East, admittedly somewhat drab in comparison. Other spots include Little Poland on Roncesvalles Ave (between King and Dundas West) and Koreatown along Bloor Street West between Christie and Bathurst.

Chinatown, at Dundas Street West and Spadina Avenue, is a bustling affair of supermarkets, restaurants and roadside stalls – Chinese people form quarter of a million of the city’s population. (For a truly Hong Kong–esque vibe, head to the Pacific Mall in the northern suburb of Markham). Close to Chinatown is Kensington Market, an ethnically diverse area with open–air market and food stalls.

Design central
Toronto is crammed with interesting sights from the curved symmetry of New City Hall and Nathan Phillips Square to the Beaux Arts exterior of Union Station and Royal York Hotel. At the ingeniously designed if somewhat ugly Roger’s Centre http://www.rogerscentre.com (SkyDome), catch a Toronto Blue Jays baseball game or Argonauts (Canadian football), season–depending. Buy tickets at the stadium – baseball starts from CAN$9 and football from $20. Alternatively, watch Toronto Raptors (basketball) or Toronto’s Maple Leafs (ice hockey) at the nearby Air Canada Centre.

In the Banking District, look up to Toronto’s glossy skyscrapers including the gold-plated Royal Bank Plaza. In contrast is St Lawrence District, one of Toronto’s oldest neighbourhoods, (east of Yonge), home to the neo–gothic St James Cathedral and Flatiron Building.

Casa Loma in Uptown is worth the trek. The castle, once owned by entrepreneur Sir Henry Pellatt, is a fantastical architectural vision. Take an audio guide (included with entrance fee) and explore. Don’t miss the conservatory and views from the third-floor towers. And take a picnic to enjoy al fresco lunching in the gardens.

Shop, eat, drink and live
Retail therapy is easy in Toronto from the glossy Eaton Centre mall on Yonge, eclectic outlets along Queen Street West, The Bay department store and exclusive spots in Yorkville (Uptown). Not forgetting 11 kilometres of labyrinth in the Underground City, connected to the subway stations.

Café culture is big from cute coffee bars to the ubiquitous Tim Horton’s. Dining is heavenly and global in downtown Toronto. King Street West, Queen Street West and Church Street are just several suggestions.

In Old Toronto, St Lawrence market (Tue-Sat) is a foodie’s heaven while further east is the Distillery District where the former Gooderam and Worts brewery site now houses an eclectic and atmospheric collection of shops and restaurants from chocolatier Soma to unique gifts in Bergo.

Get your culture fix at the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts, home of Canadian opera and ballet, or take in music, dance and theatre at the lakefront Harbourfront Centre.

On the lake
Toronto’s piece de resistance is Lake Ontario. From the waterfront, catch cruises along the shore for an alternative skyline view or take the ferry to the vehicle–free Toronto Islands; Ward’s, Centre and Hanlan’s Point. http://www.toronto.ca/parks/island

The islands offer acres of parkland where you can hire cycles, walk, picnic, sunbathe and enjoy skyline and lake views, plus amusement park and children’s farm. Ferries leave from Westin Harbour Castle Hotel at the end of Bay and Yonge.

To the Falls
Escape urban life just 130km away. At Niagara Falls, 52 metres of crashing water create a stunning sight – just ignore the town around it. Billed as the ‘honeymoon capital of the world,’ Niagara Falls town has sadly mushroomed into a neon-lit nightmare of tacky shops, casinos and high–rise hotels.

But the Falls remain impressive. Lying on the US–Canada border, separated by Goat Island, are the stunning Horseshoe Falls (Canadian side) and the slightly less impressive American Falls (US side). The Falls are not high, but the volume of water crashing down the arc is immense at 168,000 cubic metres per minute, also providing hydroelectric power. Downstream, the whitewater of the Whirlpool Rapids form the largest series of waves in North America.  In winter, jagged ice blocks dangle extraordinarily from the cliffs.

Of the many tours, Maid of the Mist is a must. Waterproofs are provided as the boat sails to the foot of the Falls for an up-close–and–personal (and wet) experience. It’s also worth taking the ‘Journey behind the falls’ where you can (safely) experience the full force of the water from behind the cliff face.

Staying in Niagara Falls town is convenient if you want to cross the border for a spot of cheap dollar-to-sterling shopping, but for a more picturesque experience, head to Niagara-on-the-Lake, 26km downstream. It’s an atmospheric place dating back to the nineteenth century, complete with apothecary, pretty houses, ice cream parlours and enjoyable people–watching on Queen Street.

Toronto is a surprising city. Its global vibe, great shopping, world cuisine and beautiful setting make it one helluva city break. And with the Falls so close, there’s no better incentive.