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  Croatia
  Robin McKelvie/   Posted 17/08/07
 
 

Robin has visited an impressive 77 countries during his time as a travel writer. He writes the weekly travel page for the Sunday Post and with over 1,000 articles under his travelling belt he enlightens ebookers about his passion for Croatia. 

Eastern Europe, the hidden gem of Europe is now emerging as a popular choice for not only the well trodden backpacker, but increasingly the lavish tourist keen to indulge in the culture and scenery of an up-and-coming destination.

The first time I headed to Croatia it was a fledgling nation just striking out on its own from Yugoslavia. That was back in 1992 and a lot has changed. I have now written four guidebooks to a country that these days is emerging as one of Europe’s brightest and most thrilling new holiday destinations.

What first attracted me then is what tempts most people today – one of the continent’s most dramatic coastlines, which sweeps south from the Slovenian border to Montenegro in an impressive 1,185 islands. Croatia is also blessed with a flurry of national parks and historic cities where it often feels like the Romans and Venetians only left yesterday.

Add in the cleanest seawater in the Mediterranean, myriad adventure sports (from sea kayaking through to free climbing), world-class sailing, arguably Europe’s best seafood (Italians flock across the sea to dine here), and some seriously underrated wines, and Croatia offers a compelling cocktail.

The islands are a big draw, with everything from glitzy resorts through to isolated islets where you are the only visitor. In the northern Kvarner Gulf region Krk is a popular resort island that is linked to the mainland by a lofty bridge. Krk Town boasts a charming historical quarter, with resorts dotted around the coast. The island is also a fun place to lay out a towel and do nothing, especially after enjoying a glass of the excellent white wine Krk is renowned for.

Just to the south Cres and Losinj are equally appealing for independent travellers. These twin islands are linked by a tiny bridge and both also blessed with a strong Venetian heritage, which unfurls in the chocolate box beauties of Cres Town, Mali Losinj and Veli Losinj. Here you can explore the cobbled streets, then recline for an afternoon on a boat trip and still make it back in time for a slap up seafood feast on the waterfront. Nightlife consists of a sunset stroll around the old harbours with a sladoled (the excellent Italian-style ice cream) for company.

The southernmost region of Dalmatia boasts even more choice. Many of the islands can be reached from ports on the littoral with the city of Split the main hub. The most popular are Hvar, Brac and Korcula.

Hvar is awash with wild lavender and its eponymous capital has become popular with the international jet set in recent years. The old Venetian streets of Hvar Town pulse with a sprinkling of restaurants, web of pavement cafes and some of Croatia’s trendiest bars. You can also make trips by bus and boat around the rest of the island, exploring isolated beaches, coves and vineyards.

Brac meanwhile is a rocky escape with the highest point of all the Croatian islands and quarries that supplied the marble that built both Split’s Diocletian’s Palace and the White House in Washington. If you are into hiking this is the place for you, though it is also home to the country’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat, a top spot for both sunbathing and windsurfing.

Korcula is an island famous within Croatia for its vineyards and the impossibly pretty capital of Korcula Town. Reputed to be the birthplace of legendary explorer Marco Polo, Korcula Town tumbles around a tiny peninsula with the Adriatic sparkling all around. You can drift among the ramparts, cobbled streets and old churches, before surveying the scene from the comfort of Massimo Bar, which has perhaps the finest view of any bar in the islands. Perched up high in a sturdy stone watchtower above the old town, water and mountains sweep all around and swooping swallows share sublime sunsets with you. With so many islands to choose from many travellers plan a trip that doesn’t allow much time for the urban centres of the littoral. This is a mistake as the Croatian coastline for me offers some of Europe’s most attractive and engaging towns and cities.

In the north the Istria region gives away its proximity to Italy with traces of both Venetian and Roman culture. The highlight is Rovinj. Spreading spectacularly out across its own Adriatic peninsula this orange roof tiled gem is picture postcard perfect. The hotels, lively bars and great value restaurants dotted around its cobbled streets make it a handy base for discovering the rest of Istria. If you have more time the Roman arena in Pula and the UNESCO World Heritage listed Basilica of Euphrasius in Porec are well worth exploring.  Dropping south into Northern Dalmatia the main attraction is Zadar. The Venetian and Roman influences are writ large in a historic quarter that is set dramatically on its own peninsula. This buzzing Adriatic city seems on an inexorable rise, but it is still something of a travel secret so you can get in there before the crowds descend. The centre is unmistakably Roman with the ancient Forum once again alive with a sprinkling of pavement cafes. Then there are the clutch of churches that dot the old town, each with their own evocative stories to tell.

In Central Dalmatia Croatia’s second largest city, Split, bustles into view. This raffish and sultry Mediterranean port’s heart is dramatically woven around Roman Emperor Diocletian’s old retirement palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Splicani still eke out a living within the palace, with old ladies hanging out their washing in former Roman state rooms. Many people only come to Split to catch a ferry to the islands, but I recommend giving this intoxicating city much longer.

In the far south Dubrovnik, Lord Byron’s much eulogised ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’, is easily the country’s most striking and architecturally homogenous city. You won’t forget your first sight of the old core. Tucked between the shimmering waters of the Adriatic on one side and rugged limestone cliffs on the other Dubrovnik lies the most perfectly preserved city-state in Europe.

A pedestrianised baroque oasis, awash with vaulting church spires, intriguing museums and hulking old fortifications, Dubrovnik is the place to head if you only have time to visit one place in Croatia. There are numerous excellent seafood restaurants, a clutch of laidback bars and numerous day trip options to the offshore islands. I struggled in 1992 to get to Dubrovnik in a country still finding its feet; I guarantee today that you just won’t want to leave.

 
   
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